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516 A miserable five degrees, drizzle and never ending fog banks are our companions on the motorway as we drive to the airport on our way to Málaga. We soon forget the abysmal weather when we disembark some four hours later to be met on the gangway by a magic 28 degrees, blue skies and not a cloud in sight. With more than 3,000 hours of sunshine, Andalusia is Spain's sunniest region, and this is just one of the reasons for us visiting this southernmost region of Spain, next to controversial landscapes, tasty food and an interesting history. It was this guaranteed good wea- ther, even in October, which made us decide to come here for our autumn vacation - especially as we only had limited time available as both of us have full-time jobs. Armed with hand luggage only, we made haste to get to Johannes and Eva at the Touratech Test Centre Hispania Tours in Málaga to collect the bikes. We had already shipped our outdoor equipment in advance to the province capital by mail and could hardly await to strap our sleeping bags and luggage rolls to the motorcycles and finally be astride a machine again. The Touratech inner bags were quickly stowed in the cases, the camping stove and cooking utensils stashed away and the Garmin navigator switched on. The first 172 of 2,200 kilometers of our Andalusian trip were waiting for us. The first leg of our tour took us southwards. A quick stopover in Marbella's yacht harbor, where the rich and beautiful people of this world meet, was a must. Shortly behind Marbella, the A-397 meanders up to Ronda - a well maintained road and we even come across the occasional sports machine. On our first day we take a more leisurely approach with our water-cooled R1200 GS and F650 GS - the views are simply sensational, leaving you virtually speechless after each bend on the road. No sooner had one left the touristy region, the landscape was dominated by barren mountains, only to be interrupted by the occa-

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