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1719 through the gate in the mighty city wall and am immedi- ately enthralled by the spell of this city which meets all new arrivals. I slender through crooked alleys, past decorative coffee shops and lovingly furnished art galleries and boutiques. Walking over worn cob- blestones, I climb up to the city‘s landmark high above: Castle Krumau and the gothic St. Vitus church, which was erected in the middle of the 14. century. The view from here is absolutely fantastic. The tiled roofs of the old city center shimmer deep red under the sun. The Vltava river flows through the city in lazy bends and lends the historic scenery a peaceful atmosphere. When looking for a café, I am pushed for choice. I make the right decision and soon later I place my order sitting directly on the bank of the river. A hearty meal and two coffees later I strap the tank rucksack back on my Dakar and reluctantly leave Krumau behind. The 162 takes me to Frymburk. And again: nothing but bends! This part of southern Bohemia makes every motorcyclist‘s heart leap.

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