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1302 water, shoots up like fountains and clouds any vision. Crossing series of high bumps, the motor guard slips over step-shaped holes, deep hollows, sharp-edged sheets of laterite hid- den by Fesh Fesh, while we proceed onwards, slipping and sliding with our BMW. I would have liked an even stronger spring to give the F 800 better ground clearance. However, the stress of even harder damping on the damper mount of the pinion and the frame, could damage the suspen- sion despite having installed special high-strhegth screws. But the Level 2 Explore HP dampens everything, except desires. Exhibiting no signs of fatigue, it seems to take the 500 kg BMW beyond its limits of endu- rance. Following the Amboseli Road leading to the Eastgate of the park, a washboard at best, and lined with the bomas of the Massai, we gain a first impression of their culture. In next to no time we realize that this is culture being offered at tourist pri- ces and that these Massai, derisively referred to as „plastic Massai“, are not our real target group. In Kimana we get to know Juan, the Spaniard, and his wife Bella, a Kenyan Luo.

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